Sunday, September 7, 2014

Another Way Of Looking-My Fuji X100s

At first I didn't believe in the difference between rangefinder and single lens reflex (SLR) shooters. This, in spite of years of discussions with my close friend Shawn, a dyed in the wool Leica shooter. I never understood his more contemplative approach to shooting and the esthetic mindset he brought to his personal photography. That is, until now.

I wouldn't have thought that a non-reflex camera would find its way into my kit. I did, and do, carry a Nikon P7700 as an emergency "shoot flash in bright sunlight" camera, but its tiny sensor made for some rather noisy images, and a lack of sharpness that I could feel more than I could see. True, a pixel is a pixel, but compact cameras with small sensors just don't produce the kind of images I've come to expect.

The Fuji X100s: Admittedly, this is the camera that started me thinking. Something of a novelty when it was introduced, it was definitely not a toy. Among its noteworthy features: A solid, camera-like feel, conveniently placed external controls , a hybrid optical/digital viewfinder, and a non-interchangeable 35mm F 2.0 equivalent lens. I hemmed and hawed for a very long time, but finally "bit" when a new, all black one was available for purchase.

Flash! The one thing that drew me to the X100s was its leaf shutter, with its inherent ability to synchronize speedlights up to a top speed of 1/4000 of a second. This presumes that your chosen exposure time (shutter speed) is longer than the duration of the flash at the appropriate power output. This makes my X100s a potential go-to camera for those situations where flash may be needed to enhance a photo when the primary lighting is provided by direct sunlight, a notoriously powerful light source. David Hobby has a very detailed explanation of t.5 and t.1 times if you want a more detailed explanation. However, a clever photographer can do a systematic trial-and-error method to determine the optimal shutter speed/flash output settings when using manual settings, which is what these times are all about. Here's how: 
  • Find an indoor location where the ambient light is enough to allow for proper auto-focusing, but not so strong as to influence the exposure of your sample images.
  • Be sure your camera and flash are OFF.
  • Mount your camera on a tripod (optional).
  • Attach your flash to your camera.
  • Turn your camera an flash ON.
  • Set you flash/speedlight to 1/2 power output.
  • Set your shutter speed to  1/125 of a second to start, and make an exposure. Examine the playback image. If you can display a histogram, so much the better.
  • If the image is too bright, stop down your lens or decrease the ISO setting until you get a centered histogram. If it is too dark, set the lens to a larger aperture, or increase the ISO setting. When your aperture/ISO combination yield an centered histogram, continue to the next step.
  • Set your shutter speed to 1/160 of a second (or the next shorter exposure increment) and make an exposure.
  • Compare the two images. If the histogram is displayed, you will (hopefully) see no difference in their horizontal alignment. This tells you that both shutter settings can take full advantage of the flash's 1/2 power output. Without the histogram, you can get a rough idea by just comparing the images.
  • Continue to decrease the exposure time until the histogram shifts noticeably to the left. This indicates that some of the light from the flash is being "clipped" from the tail end of the discharge curve. When you see this, you know that you've had exceeded the minimum shutter speed for your flash when set to 1/2 power.
Photo #2
You can repeat this for a flash setting of 1/4 power. Once you have these numbers, write them down on a piece of tape attached to your flash.This actually took longer to read than to actually do. See Photo #1.

Photo #2
This flash is my Young Nao 560, an inexpensive (or cheap, depending on how you feel about the unit) flash that has accompanied me on several outings. I've used it primarily with my Nikon D70/70s cameras, and my Sony, specifically for use in augmenting direct sunlight outdoors. As you can see, I've done the tests and recorded the results for future reference. I chose the YN560 because of it no-frills triggering system (central contact pin and hot shoe contact) which allows the unit to be fired without the camera body actually knowing there's a flash present (Photo #2, arrow). This is the main reason I use it, and resign myself to struggling with manually determining the proper aperture setting.

To be continued...

Sunday, August 31, 2014

Gretchen's Dress

Sorry gang, this is it. I'm writing this after spending nearly 4 hours to get this photo of Gretchen's Quinceanera dress for her album. This has been something of a matter of pride, since my first effort was a disaster. Now I'm not holding this image up for it's esthetic merit, but rather as an example that things aren't always as easy as you might think. 

This photo has a history. Three weeks ago I tried to make the photo, but while I was satisfied with the lighting, the original background and the visual concept didn't make it. My go-to blue background was more distracting than helpful, and even though I struggled mightily to get things done right, nobody liked the image. The main problem was my initial concept: I had created an image where the disembodied dress floated in front of the background, without any sense of context. It was actually rather spooky, since it looked like the Invisible Woman was wearing it, or should I say "floating" in it. Well, at least the colors looked pretty good. Here it is (Photo #1).
Photo #1
There were some things I liked about this shot. The blue background was very forgiving about exposure, since one could light it up or down, depending on how the final produce was going to look. The mottled background makes it difficult to see any wrinkles in the background, so I wasn't obligated to drench the backdrop in light. The blue compliments the golden "campaign" color of the dress. I believe I used a gridded softbox for the shot, which helped to show the fine details in the dress. 

This "floating in space" look was a visual dead end. Some friends suggested that a hanger would add some context, so I bought some satin hangers just for the shot. I still didn't like the idea of the dress hanging from the loops, so I decided to hide them with flowers. I went to a local craft store and purchased a red rose garland, along with some light colored "stemmed" roses, and a single pink, long stem rose, just in case.

Photo #2
Prepping the dress was a major job. First, I had to close the gown from behind. Like a bridal gown, it laced from the back. As I would only be photographing the front, I used some cable ties to close up the back (Photo #2). Next, I found some cardboard and made a tube to slip inside the bodice to give it some shape. I realized that all of this preparation was actually turning the dress into a giant flower pot, which would allow me to hang the red rose garland more easily. 

Photo #3
When I placed the garlands on the dress, it looked a little too "wedding", so rather than rely on the pink roses alone, I just let a few red roses peek over the edge, using the pink and violet "stems" to give the arrangement a little elevation. A flower arranger I'm not, so I pushed the flowers in as best I could. Here's the final arrangement. Because so few red roses are visible, the arrangement doesn't shout "wedding". Photo #3 was a quick available light shot made from ground level. The dress was actually hanging from a boom to keep the dress off the ground. More on that later.


Photo #4
This shot was made with a fish eye lens with the camera almost inside the dress. If you look closely, you can see the cardboard tube that I used to give the dress its shape (Photo #4). I did tape the roses together to make them easier to handle and to keep them for falling through the cardboard tube onto the floor. This gave me the idea for the single rose on the ground at the base of the dress. Whimsical, perhaps, but I could always clone it out if Gretchen doesn't like it.

Photo #5
Big Problems: The biggest problem was the background (Photo #5). I purchased an inexpensive white muslin background, which I thought would be much easier to use that the traditional paper rolls I once relied on. The biggest problem in the shoot was providing enough light to make the creases disappear. This was harder that I would have guessed, since the cross light arrangement I used (2 Nikon speedlights on each side) couldn't completely eliminate those darned creases. As a result, the power output was boosted to the point where it affected the overall contrast of the image. You can see that wrinkles are still visible in the upper right hand corner, so I adjusted my camera left lights to provide more light. In the end I got what I wanted, but the exposure pretty much blasted the exposure off the right side of the histogram. The overexposed white background allowed some light to pass through the dress, which hid some of the subtle detail.


Photo #6
Hanging The Dress: The dress was hung from a boom arm of a very sturdy light stand, weighted at the base with a 25 pound dumbbell and counter-weighted with a Norman B200 battery pack (Photo #6). I knew I could easily clone out the boom. The wrinkles on the floor were another matter. There wasn't any way I could get enough light on the floor to completely eliminate them, so I know there would be some heavy retouching involved. The final shot is shown below (Photo #7). Remember that the camera is mounted on a tripod, and the focus locked manually on the dress.

Photo #7
The Red Rose. Getting the rose in the shot was easy, but providing enough lighting to erase the wrinkles wasn't . In this shot, you can see that I could just swing the boom and moved the dress out of the way, and use a single softbox, held directly above the rose, to remove the fabric shadows on the floor covering (Photo #8). 
Photo #8
In theory, the two rose images were perfectly aligned. Here you can see the Lastolite EZ Box with a speedlight being used to add some optimistic top lighting.


Again, here's the final shot after the two images were merged and treated to lots and lots of cloning. Once again, I have  a dress floating in space, but not nearly so spooky with the hanger and the flowers.

This was a lot of work for an image that could have been and easy shot if I raised the dress and the background and eliminated any hint of a floor beneath the dress. But If anyone asks about the juxtaposition of the rose beneath the dress, I can truthfully answer that it was really there, and can claim that it wasn't Photoshopped in place. This is also true if you ignore the extensive post production the image required.

My take-away from the project was an appreciation of the difficulties of getting a crease-free, shadowless white background. It would have been easier if a roll of background paper was available, but weight and portability issues would have made the option impractical in the extreme. I probably need to explore a different way to store fabric backgrounds, or at least find some way to relax the wrinkles. I learned a lot, but it came at a high cost.

I just hope Gretchen likes the shoot. Now on to the rest of the accessories.