Filling The Pelican - The Small Bits

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Changing from a rolling sports equipment bag to a Pelican case was like downsizing from a bungalow to a fifth wheel. In the process, I eliminated the equipment packed but I never used, and restocked the Pelican with accessories that easily stored and more effective. Some old standbys were kept so long as they were potentially useful and compact.

Rogue Grid. Buy yours here.

Grid Spots: I favored the Rogue Grid from Expo Imaging. Like nearly every non OEM speedlight accessory, it was held in place using Velcro tape on the flash head. Retention was a little iffy, but if handled carefully, it was secure enough. It featured two grid inserts which could be used individually or in tandem to produce a variety of lighting effects. 

I recall using it only once in the field, and the effect was worth its weight in chocolate The photo was of the installation of Rodin's "The Thinker" in the Cantor Art Museum on the Stanford University campus in Palo Alto. Luckily for me there was time to experiment, and if you check my blog posting on the shoot, you can see the dramatic effect that grid spot had on the final product. The Rogue system could accommodate pre-cut colored gels if I only remembered where I put them.

Since dipping my toe in the Godox "round headed world", I dove in and purchased a variety of accessories, including these grids. The built-in magnets on the flash bezel ring provide an easy-on easy-off option, and are much less likely to get bumped off during the rigors of working in a "run-and-gun" environment than the velcro-secured Rogue unit.

For flashes with rectangular heads, there is an adapter that easily attaches to a variety of different flash head dimensions, up to and including the the largish AD200. By comparison, this system takes up a little more space than the Rogue Grid, but is faster to deploy. 

Honl Gels. No longer available

Gels: Speaking of gels, I originally kept a full set of rectangular Honl Photo Gels in my bag. Like the Honl Grids, they were attached with velcro strips. I also liked that the gels were clearly identified. 

Back in the day my speedlights always had small pieces of Velcro tape on the flash head. This allowed me to easily attach Honl snoots and other light modifiers like the Lumiquest mini-softboxes. Now that my speedlights are Velcro free, I use a Honl Speed Strip when I need some sticky-points.

When I was a proud Nikon user, I usually carried multiple SB-800 speedlights, and always had one with a CTO gel permanently taped to the head. In the bag,   I stored it gel-side-up so I could immediately reach for it when needed. This procedure was more appropriate for the "run and gun" situation where speed was of the essence. Incidentally,  

Since shifting to the magnetic option, I started using the round gel holders and installing the Godox gel disks. No, I don't have a lot of confidence in the color consistency of the gels, but this is digital and not film, so minor adjustments can easily be made in post-production, or a custom white balance setting can taken. Being magnetic, multiple gel holders can be stacked, one upon the other, for a more dramatic effect.

I have proven to my own satisfaction that when judiciously used, gels, can produce photographs more "real than real" by aligning what the mind sees with what the camera records. In this regard the CTO (daylight to tungsten) gels are the most valuable, since we readily accept the color shifts that occur under incandescent light. As they say, any color shift is acceptable so long as the shift is to the "warm".

The Manfrotto Justin Clamp: This gizmo was the hot ticket for positioning a single speedlight without a light stand. All you had to do was find a flat surface (a shelf or a door), attach a speedlight to the cold shoe, and clamp it. The miniature ball head gave you flexibility in direction, and the system worked well enough.

I found that the Justin Clamp worked well on paper, and it did, so long as the clamp was strong enough to keep the unit from twisting out of position. Unfortunately, the plastic cold shoe could crack when the thicker hotshoe of a Nikon SB900 was forced into place.  Manfrotto eventually  corrected that by using a properly sized cold shoe. I suspect most people simply replaced the plastic OEM shoe with an adjustable metal one, as I did here. The clamps were also expensive.

Buy yours here.

Amazon came to my rescue once again, as I found this miniature clamp, complete with ball head and a 1/4x 20 threaded shaft, for about $13.00. All I had to do was find my stash of metal cold shoes (I bought them by the handsfull back in the day) and I would be back in business.

This first part covers the small items in the case, the sorts of things that you wouldn't normally think about until something goes really wrong and you have to kludge something to make it right. Other essentials would include a flashlight, a Swiss army knife, a pair of folding pliers, some ball bungie cords, and one heavy duty bungie to connect the light stand to some convenient ballast, namely the case itself. Add pens, a small notebook, gaffer tape, some alcohol wipes, some first aid supplies, some cough drops, and we're all set.

With my transition to the Pelican case nearly completed, I donated the old equipment bag to the Salvation Army. When I passed the now empty case to the Donation Sorter, I was shocked by how little it weighed. Still, my last assignment convinced me that once I managed to wrestle the case onto the set, the easier access to all my accessories would help me work more efficiently. Still, that Pelican is one heavy bird...

I will cover my revised lighting equipment list in another post.