Sunday, August 25, 2024

My Shortest Dragon - The 17-35 F 2.8 Nikkor

Read Ken Rockwell's Review here.
The Three Dragons: According to popular lore, NIkon created a series of three zoom lenses and dubbed them the Three Dragons. While they all had maximum apertures of  F 2.8, the combined focal length range varied from a maximum of 200mm to a minimum that varied with the most current high-speed zoom the company had to offer. The standby zoom ranges were the 70-200mm 2.8, the 24-70 2.8, and whatever the widest zoom lens happened to be at the time. Currently it is the 14-24 zoom, but before 2007, it was the 17-35mm 2.8, which is shown here. It was the last member of the trio that I purchased for a price that is best forgotten. It suffices to say I paid dearly to complete my collection, but never had cause to use it in the field. I tended to carry my 15-30 Sigma when reaching for a full-framed super wide angle lens, partly because the Sigma weighed only 21.9 ounces, compared to the Nikon's 26.3 ounce heft. That doesn't sound like much, but ounces become pounds when assembling a proper kit for an assignment where you can't park your car nearby, or more importantly, when it's mounted to a DSLR body and hanging from one's neck.

I freely admit that carrying those Three Dragons was certainly a knight's errand. The lenses were all heavy, and when coupled with two full-framed DSLR bodies (A D600 primary and a backup D700) it becomes a sizable burden. Now that my working system is a Fuji APS series of bodies and lenses, the performance of this enormous 17-35 is easily duplicated by my 10-24 F 4.0 zoom, which was the first lens I grabbed for a long time. When I finally got tired of the "stretch face" distortion created when working at short distances, I then made my 16-55 2.8 the first choice lens. It forced me to increase my minimum working distance and lessened the distortion considerably.

While the Sigma has a weight advantage, the Nikkor could accept 77mm filters, which allows me the protection of a protective filter and braving a landscape filled with thumbprints and wayward bits of airborne flotsam.

August 11, 2024
August 11, 2024
August 11, 2024
I had hoped to add some random field shots taken with the 17-35, but the combination of time and opportunity have not meshed successfully, so for the moment these early images must suffice. The difference in contrast and sharpness are apparent when viewed in post-production, but only hinted at when the image lands in a post.  The lens is definitely a cut above the Sigma, but for the price, it should be. 

Today, for one last hurrah, I hauled the lens out to Sausalito. I was hoping to make some photographs where this super-wide angle lens was in its element. However, most of it was pretty two-dimensional, although the exaggerated foreshortening inherent to such a lens can be observed.  Here's today's harvest:

August 25, 2024
August 25, 2024
August 25, 2024
August 25, 2024
August 25, 2024
August 25, 2024
These photos were taken in the light industrial Sausalito shoreline. There were body shops, electricians, and a few scattered marine-related businesses. I was surprised to find what appeared to be a rather nice restaurant called Anchorage 5, a place I might try some day. It's easy to speculate how the restaurant came to be. Perhaps it was the equivalent of the neighborhood restaurant for the residents of the houseboat community moored nearby.

So what's the point of carrying the lens if it is so infrequently used? I have to wonder if purchasing the Pergear 14mm F 2.8 might be easier on my shoulders, as it weighs only17 ounces. Also, I would probably have a more "normal" mounted on my camera, and deploy a superwide lens only the situation warranted. As such, the lighter Peargear, waiting patiently for its moment to shine, makes a bit more sense.

Incidentally, there's a speck of dust at the top edge of the frame the I need to address.

Sunday, August 18, 2024

Pelican Case Deployment (Finally)

For more years than I can accurately count, I carried my lighting equipment in a rolling sports equipment bag. In it I managed to stuff numerous light stands, speedlights, umbrellas, stand adapters, and a variety of clamps and flash modifiers. At the time, my light modifiers consisted mainly of shoot through umbrellas and a collection of CC gels, and some gaffer tape to hold them in place. While most of these accessories were never used, it was comforting to know everything was just a zipper's pull away.

Buy yours here.
The years have taken their toll, and the rolling bag is starting to fray around the edges. I was going to  transfer everything to a Pelican case that was purchased at a camara show some years back. I remember making sure it would hold a compact light stand before I purchased it. For the record, it was a nearly-new Pelican IM 2500, used only once by a courier to transport some delicate equipment cross-country. It sat unused in my garage since the day of purchase.

Earlier Attempts: In 2022, I repacked my location flash kit into a Tenba camera bag. Using a partitioned Domke lens module, I was able to get four Flashpoint speedlights, safe and upright, into the bag. There was still room for extra batteries and magnetic gel and grid attachments. The system was built around the first generation Flashpoint radio triggers which provided on-camera output adjustments, but no off-camera TTL capabilities. These speedlights use a proprietary Lithium-Ion battery that gives me short recycle times even when pushing full-power pops.One problem: There was nor provision for carrying a light stand.

Rapid Deployment: My most recent assignment, a location portrait of a San Francisco Director at a small theater off Union Square, made me stop and think about what I carried, and why. On an earlier location portrait, I carried my camera bag over my shoulder, and both my rolling equipment bag AND my speedlight bag piled into a collapsible wagon. In truth, I only needed my "big" AD200 flash, and a light stand. for my key light, and a spare light stand for the accent light I pulled from my rolling equipment bag. In short, I carried way too much, and used way too little. This time I pared everything down to a bare minimum. My Domke camera bag would be slung over my shoulder, along with a tall light stand. Into the Pelican went 2 collapsible light stands, two umbrella brackets, two collapsable shoot-through umbrellas, a Glow 31x31" Quick Softbox, my AD200 flash, and a few loose gels thrown in as an afterthought. But I couldn't find my collection of grids and dedicated mounted gels, which forced me to improvise on the spot, wasting valuable time. In the end, the job was completed on time, but just barely. But it proved that bringing the Pelican case was a proper decision, as it was smaller and more maneuverable than the my soft equipment case. All I need to do is collect the missing bits and stow them safely.

Buy your here.
Lid Organization:  I learned that Pelican provides a variety of options for users who wish to explore the company's storage options. As purchased, my case was just an empty shell. But having gained some field experience, I knew I needed something not just for organization's sake, but something that would allow me to spend less time searching and more time shooting. I found this five-pouch insert on Amazon for half the cost of the nine-pouch version. Thrifty is as thrifty does. so I bought it immediately, and plan to have everything in it proper place for my next assignment.

When the project is completed I'll provide a postscript so we can see how it turned out. Just as an aside: I'm removing all Pelican stickers from the exterior of the case.

Krist and McNally Gag Real
Joe McNally and Bob Krist: Most of my earliest inspiration came from Joe McNally, a Nikon photographer who championed the Nikon Creative LIght System. Before I converted to the Fuji system, I relied on Nikon SB800 and SB900 speedlights with their TTL exposure control. He and travel  photographer Bob Krist put together a 2-DVD set describing, in detail, how the components of the CLS worked together to achieve full exposure control. One chapter of the DVD set features  a complete equipment list for Bob Krist's traveling studio. Rather than listing the contents of his kit, you can view the equipment portion by clicking here. I followed his suggestions, and can truthfully say that I already own everything contained in Bob's kit. All I need to do is put everything in one case.

Monday, August 12, 2024

3 Big, Wide, Lenses

 

Images are not to scale. Sources can be seen af the bottom of each lens.
My Sony A7 has given me a chance to play with the manual lenses I saved from my film days. The shallow body form factor of the mirrorless Sony allows plenty of space for a variety of adapters to introduce these optical gems to the bliss of the digital workflow. Up until now, my efforts had been confined to older film-era prime lenses, but these soon expanded to several samples of the new and inexpensive Chinese optics. My collection also includes several non-Leitz Leica-mount lenses, purchased for their compact design. They almost disproportionately small when mounted on the bulky A7 body, but together they make a compact photo-making machine.

Sigma 15-30mm Lens: I started accumulating full-framed, super wide zoom lens started long ago. At the time, I was using APS-sensored Nikon DSLRs, and due to the 1.5X crop factor, any superwide lens would have had a much narrower field of view. However, I knew that someday I would upgrade to a full framed body, so I kept my eyes out for full framed lenses. The first one that I purchased was a used Sigma 15-30 F 3.5-4.5 zoom. I read the specifications before I purchased the lens, and was satisfied that it would be a good starter lens. The price was right, and it turned out to be a satisfactory lens for my purposes. At its 15mm minimum focal length it had a reasonable F 3.5 shooting aperture. Its bulbous front element makes it impossible to mount a filter. All in all, this lens a good value.

The Fallacy Of Unlimited Depth Of Field: Like many photographers, I had long believed that wide angle lenses (short focal length lenses, actually) had very generous depths of field. This is true at greater distances. For example, if I examine the zone focusing (depth of field) scale on the lens barrel, I might find that if I set my aperture to F 11.0 and align the infinity mark with F 11 on the far side, the lens "should" provide sharp focus from infinity to as close as 1.5 feet. This is an interesting notion, but in this case, I was focusing at a subject-to-film plane distance of about 14 inches. The nearest  "horn" of this cleat (camera left) was about 10" from the front of the lens, and based on a close examination of this image, outside of the "in focus" range of this particular aperture. For the record, I was concentrating on the pattern of the ropes, and hadn't considered if the aperture would be small enough for a subject so "deep" (front to back). Now this softness could also be the result of the lens being incapable of high degrees of sharpness towards the edges of the frame. Either way, this image would not pass muster if printed to 11"x17", framed, and mounted on a wall.  Whatever the cause, the lens may well prove acceptable if the subject is centered in the frame and the edges were expected to be "blurry".


When working with subjects where the center sharpness was more important than edge sharpness, the lens performed well. This red bit of plumbing, centered in the frame, is properly rendered, while the edges show a definite softness. Again, I can't say whether this was due to inadequate depth of field or poor edge resolution. I could certainly test this by photographing a brick wall, or something suitably flat and full of fine detail. That, I will leave to another day, or maybe another enthusiast.