Lens Adapters On The X-Pro 1

For a compilation of the morning walk images, click here.

Fotodiox X-Mount (left) and Fotodiox Nikon F G-Type Lens Adapter (right) from B&H Camera.

The Idea: Adapting manual focus lenses to the Fuji XPro body  has been something of a gateway drug for film photographers who own lenses that aren't directly compatible with any modern digital bodies. It was no accident that the only lens adapter Fuji manufactures for its X-mount bodies accepts Leica M-Mount rangefinder lenses. It stands for reason, since the X-Pro1 body was less expensive than a digital M series Leica body at the time of its introduction in 2012, and even more so now that the Fuji X-Pro1 bodies are obtainable on the used market. The X-Pro bodies are a natural choice. X-Pro users can manually select the appropriate bright-line frame when using the unique hybrid optical viewfinder. The camera's controls are easily accessed, and the layout resembles that of a Leica M body. And last but not least, the X-Pro bodies had the feel and heft so familiar to Leicaphiles. Personally, I was mostly excited about adapting some older, non-AI Nikkor lenses to my Fuji bodies. 

My interest started when I read about the introduction of a manual focus 7artisans 7.5mm Fisheye Lens with a  Fuji mount. It made me wonder: Could I could mount my Nikon-mount 10-17mm Tokina Fisheye on a Fuji body, using an adapter? And while I'm at it, how about those mint Nikkor non-AI lenses gifted to me by a friend?

Two Adapters Styles: Which adapter should you buy? You can use an inexpensive Fotodiox X-Mount Adapter (above left, about $20.00 currently) or one with a built-in aperture adjustment ring like the FotodioX Nikon F G-Type Lens Adapter (above right, about $70.00). I eventually bought both, and I can say that you will be better off purchasing the more expensive, G series version at the start. In addition to giving you access to all Nikkor lens variations, the integral tripod mount gives you a carrying option. If you use a camera strap that attaches with a 1/4 x 20 tripod thread, the adapter, rather than the camera body, carries the weight of the lens. And some of those older, manual lenses can be quite heavy indeed.

Mounting The Lens: There are no control linkages between the camera body and the lens, so any Nikon bayonet mount can be safely used. There can be some quirks with certain generations of lenses, and I suggest the following settings.

Full Manual Lenses: A-I and Non A-I: The aperture coupling prong is the most visible characteristic of these two lens families. You can clearly see the prong (or "ears") in this photo from Ken Rockwell's excellent post on identifying Nikkor lenses. Not that it matters for this post: If you coupling prong is solid like the one in the photo, you have an earlier, non-AI lens. If you see two holes, one in each ear, you have an AI lens. Non-AI lenses have been converted to the AI configuration, so this rule for proper identification works 99% of the time. Refer to Mr. Rockwell's article for additional information.

For AI/non-AI lenses, you should control the aperture size using the ring on the lens barrel. You'll find the ring on the lens easier to adjust and the aperture sizes clearly marked. Here, you can see that both the aperture ring and the aperture coupling prong are aligned with the F 5.6 setting (above left).

When you install the lens, be sure that you set the (red) aperture ring on the adapter to the smallest aperture setting, as shown here (right). This prevents the adapter from interfering with the action of the lens aperture ring.

Nikon D Series Lenses: Nikon still manufactures prime lenses in the "D" configuration. For us, the most important aspect of the D series lenses is a small locking button located above the aperture control ring. This feature bridged the gap between the older film-only Nikon bodies and the newer digital/film bodies that controlled the aperture using a command dial located by the shutter release button.

In this photo of a later D-type lens, you can see a small sliding lock (white dot) aligned with an orange dot. 

If you wish to control the aperture using the adapter, you must rotate the aperture ring to the smallest setting (F 16 in the example to the left), and  slide the lock towards the body, the aperture will be locked at F 16. You need to use the adapter adjustment to open the aperture any wider. Older lenses have a tiny rotating button with two alignment dots, Set the aperture to its smallest setting, rotate the button until both dots are in alignment, and Bob's your uncle.

If you wish to control the lens aperture using the lens aperture ring, simply slide the lock button away from the camera body. This will unlock the aperture ring, which allows it to rotate freely. 

As with the AI lenses, I suggest that you make adjustments through the lens aperture ring because it is much easier to rotate and the aperture sizes clearly identified.

To see the complete dpreview.com Q&A posting on the subject, click here. 

Nikon G Series Lenses: This is the current configuration for nearly all Nikon lenses. Check the photo (right). You'll see that there is no external aperture ring because aperture adjustments must be made only through the camera body, or the adapter in this case. You just install the lens on the adapter, and go. Due to the design of the mount, the lens figures everything out for you. Since I shoot aperture priority on my  early morning walks, I tend to set the aperture at 5.6 and leave alone. This is the Nikkor 50mm F 1.8. If you  need one, you can order it here.

To Buy Or Not To Buy: This image was made using the Tokina 10-17 mounted on a Nikon G to Fuji X adapter.  I have to say that the results were satisfactory, but I couldn't see myself going out of my way to carry a fisheye on the off chance that the curved perspective would be something I'd want to achieve.