|Composite #1: Color Coded Settings on the Sensor|
- Yellow: This setting will allow you to use the largest aperture within the sensor's range.
- Red: This setting allows you to use an aperture two full F-stops smaller than the Yellow setting.
- Blue: This setting allows you to use an aperture two full F-stops smaller than the Red setting.
- Purple: This setting allows you to use an aperture about one F-stop smaller than the Blue setting.
If you look closely, you can see the four color-coded wedges matching the color patterns of the Sensor Dial. You can see the following suggested apertures:
- Yellow: F 2.8
- Red: F 5.6
- Blue: F 11
- Purple: F 16
The final step to set the lens aperture based on the sensor's color code. A little complicated, but this type of non-TTL metering will work on any camera's hotshoe.
I must give credit to the engineers who designed the basic Vivitar flash platform. A number of features border on genius. For example, the sensor eye can be removed and one end of the extension cable inserted into the flash body. The camera end of the cable is mounted in the camera's hot shoe, and the sensor inserted. You can see in Photo #3 that the cable, attached to the hot shoe, keeps everything properly aligned.
|Photo #3: Extension Cable Installed|
This might not seem like a big deal, it means that you can completely enclose a 285 HV within a softbox. You can control, and trigger the flash from outside the softbox with a Peanut Slave
One last feature is the 4AA cell battery holder. You can keep extras pre-loaded with fresh batteries available for a quick battery change Also, if there's a battery leak, the insert, rather than the actual flash contacts, takes the corrosive "hit".
Pretty nifty, Little Vivitar 285!