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1/250 second, F 16, ISO 250. |
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1/125 second, F 16, ISO 250. |
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1/250 second, F 16, ISO 250. |
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1/125 second, F 16, ISO 250. |
My editor suggested that a photograph could be published to highlight Mr. Annuzzi's first theater performance in Redwood City, his home town. While casting about for the background location, Mr. Annuzzi suggested that a local music store in RWC might be appropriate and convenient. He sent me a photo of the store's guitar showroom, and I liked what I saw. After confirming that a 1:00 pm photoshoot would present little or no hardship on the store's operations, we went for it.
When I first saw the showroom, I decided to concentrate on the following visual elements:I started with a shoot-through umbrella mounted on top of a light stand at a height of almost eight feet. This test shot demonstrated that I would need to increase the output to get the desired level of brightness. Also, I would be shooting from the back of the store towards the front, and the store itself was pretty dark when compared to the showroom.
For this next shot, I added two flashes that are positioned out of frame. First, I put a snoot on Flash Number two and positioned it outside the showroom and pointed directly as Mr. Annuzzi's head. If you look closely you can see the highlight on his neck which provides some background separation. Flash Number Three was pointed at the guitar display just outside of the showroom.For this shot I positioned the camera very close to the ground with the intent of using the black ceiling to direct the viewer towards Ms. Annuzzi's face. Looking at the intersection of the black ceiling and my subject's head, I think I overdid it. Time to move on.
For the final series of shots I added two additional flashes. First, I wasn't happy with the black ceiling visible at the front of the store. I added Flash Number Four on the counter and aimed it towards the ceiling. Fortunately it naturally pointed to the light fixture in the ceiling. This suggests, gently, that the lighting fixture itself provided that bit of brightness. Flash Number Five was clamped to a stool and pointed straight down at the floor. This bounce light provides a bit of fill light that is barely detectable because it does not add additional highlights on the subject's face.
Looking back, it might seem that this was a lot of work for a photo as ephemeral as a newspaper publicity shot. However, I wasn't looking for a simple shot. I wanted a photo that had some visual depth, where one could sense that there were details behind the main subject, and I believe the photo succeeded. I was not without some areas that could be improved.
Light Spillage: I struggled to eliminate, or at least reduce, the glare coming off the faces of these guitars. My first impulse was to change the position of the key light in relation to my shooting position. After several tries, I gave it. But during post production, I realized the glare was not created by the light's location, It was actually light spilling over the edge of the shoot-through umbrella. I then noticed that the shadows from the "shiny" guitars were cast in a direction different from those from the guitars closer to the ceiling. What I should have done was to add some sort of light-proof barrier (called a "flag") on the flash head to prevent the light from sneaking past the umbrella. A big piece of gaffer tape would have done the trick, so I just slapped a 2" wide strip of gaffer tape onto the flash body so I won't have to look for one the next time it's needed. Be sure to fold one end over itself (sticky face to sticky face) to provide a handy tab for rapid deployment.Kicking The Kicker: The "kicker" light is directed from behind the subject and used to provide separation from the background.The work-around for this would be to position your subject and then walk back to where the flash is. With the grid spot/snoot in place, photograph your subject from the rear. When you preview the image, you can see exactly how much of the subject will benefit from the kicker. Adjust the light until the beam falls exactly where you want it.
Now that I have solutions to these "in the field" problems, I can wait for another assignment that requires a similar level of attention to detail. Incidentally, the shoot took about one hour from first to last handshake, but the satisfaction I received from the final result was immeasurable.
If a photographer is just getting into the indoor flash thing, I continue to recommend that the first light modifier you buy is the Gary Fong Light Sphere. In spite of all my experimentation with dozens of different modifiers and techniques, you can't beat the Light Sphere for simplicity and consistency. I remember the first time I used it to make a group photo with Senator Jackie Speier when she visited an upholstery class that was held on one of our campuses. I literally took it out of the box, attached it to a NIkon D600 speedlight mounted on a Nikon D50 body, and by simply following the instructions, took a very acceptable class photo. The Light Sphere was a relatively new product at the time, and was something my subjects had never seen before. It was introduced in late 2004, and since then one of the many versions has always been within arm's reach.
Hail Mary: The photo at the top of this post was taken by simply mounting the Sphere onto an on-camera flash, holding the camera high overhead, and framing the shot using the tilting LCD on the back of my T-2. I mentioned that I find the T-2's simple "tipping" panel more practical that the T-4's that is fully articulating. Notice that by using a reasonably powerful flash at a relatively short distance, there is enough light to balance the street visible through the window behind my subjects.
I will say that there is no perfect variation. The originals were designed to fit certain families of flash heads and while easily attached to the flash, they were easily knocked free with the slightest bump. Later models incorporated a Velcro cinch strap which was more secure, but impossible to install with only one hand. When the collapsible variant became available, I settled on that one, as it was easily stuffed into a camera bag and used as a "lens cozy" for my medium zoom lens. The "dome" portion was detached and stored separately. Good thing, because I've taken to using the dome as a diffuser when taking white balance readings.
Packing Heavy: I normally carry two of everything when I'm on an assignment. Either as redundancy for backup or a chance to get multi-light creative, you will find two flashes in my bag. In being prepared, I normally use a round-headed Godox flash for its more even light pattern. But when the Light Sphere is needed, I switch to a more convention square-headed speedlight. Gary Fong claims to have made a new version that can be attached to a round-headed flash, but I haven't seen one for sale, and since I always have a suitable flash, haven't felt the need.
There are several Fourth of July events on the Peninsula. So far I've photographed in Foster City and Half Moon Bay, but never in San Mateo Proper. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the Pet Parade in Foster City was a bust, so I drove up to San Mateo to photograph their dance party in Central Park. I didn't arrive in time for the Raising of the Flag, but did arrive in time to hear the band do their sound checks.
Happy Fourth of July: Two peninsula cities, Foster City and San Mateo, each scheduled their own Fourth of July celebration. In Foster City, there was a Pet Parade, followed by a band performance at Leo Ryan Park. Families had already laid claim to their place on the lawns for their picnics, and in years past, a place where they would normally watch the fireworks display over the lagoon. San Mateo planned for a band to perform on a stage erected on the baseball diamond in Central Park just for the occasion. Since this two-fer gave me two venues to work from, I decided to attempt to make a photo of the Pet Parade. then drive north to San Mateo for the Dance Party.
Experimenting: I've always tried to find different ways to photograph pets from their perspectives. I carry two Fuji bodies: a T4 with a fully articulating LCD panel, and an older T2, which has an LCD panel that only rotates up or down, while staying aligned with the lens axis. If I'm looking straight down onto the camera when making a long-angle shot, I much prefer the T2 because the LCD is easier to stay in alignment with the subject. I mounted my 10-24 zoom lens because I knew that I'd be working very close to my canine subjects. Finally, to the best light possible, I rotated my flash head so that when I held the camera at waist level, the flash would be pointing directly at my chest. I made a quick test shot of this dog whose owner was wearing these lovely heart-shaped sunglasses. After a few tries, I resigned myself to the fact that I was winning my Pulitzer here.This tight cropping of one of those attempts does successfully illustrate the effects of my camera and flash setup. In the reflection you can see the silhouette of my shoe-mounted flash with the light bouncing off of my light-colored shirt. You will also notice that the light will fall on the subject from above the lens axis, which changes the size and nature of the catchlight. There is a problem with the camera-to-subject distance. As you can see that the farther from the subject you and your camera are positioned, the flatter the lighting becomes. You can see that there is almost no shadow beneath my subject's nose.
Photobombed: I was determined to make that full-framed photo of a patriotic puppy using this lighting setup. As I was preparing to photograph the dog with the star-spangled neck kerchief, this brave little Corgi decided to walk directly into the frame. You can catch the expression on my original subject, and almost see both the surprise and indignation in his eyes. However, the effect of this shirt-bounced flash on the Corgi was exactly what I was looking for.
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The Fixed Aperture: This particular lens has an aperture fixed at F 4.5. With low ISO settings, aperture priority exposure mode setting, and an outdoor subject this is definitely not a disadvantage unless you want/need greater depth of field. But as you may have guessed, I tend to think about what I would need to do if I wanted to employ a flash, and how this fixed aperture size might complicate a shooting solution. Since all of my current interchangeable lens mirrorless bodies sync at about 1/200 of a second, the F 4.5 aperture makes it almost impossible to use it with flash outdoors. Que the ND Filter.
Bring The Darkness: Neutral Density (ND) filters can darken an image by reducing the amount of light passing through the lens. The one I purchased decreases the light throughput by 3 stops, turning my F 4.5 lens to an effective F-stop of between F11 and F 16. If you examine the lead shot's exposure data and adjust the aperture to accommodate the ND filter. the settings closely correspond to the values derived from the "Sunny Sixteen Rule". The combination of filter and fixed aperture allows my to properly expose a sunlit subject at a shutter setting low enough for effective lash application. The exposure settings gave me the cyan sky I so adore, but shadow detail has been sacrificed to achieve it. The facial illumination? I used a shoe mounted flash bounced off my neighbor's white garage door.
The venue featured narrow hallways with yellow walls and ceilings. I made this test shot by bouncing my flash off the ceiling, and you can see the yellow tint on my subject's faces. If the surroundings were painted in a warm color, the added tint might have gone unnoticed, or in the best case, actually improved their coloration. Yellow, unfortunately, gives my subjects a jaundiced look, and technically accurate, but not complimentary.
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Read Ken Rockwell's review here. |
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Buy yours here. |
As wonderful as the Viltrox 28mm F 4.5 lens is, it isn't perfect. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the lens has has no means of attaching a filter. This could be a big thing because the fixed F 4.5 aperture is pretty wide, and it would be helpful if a neutral density filter could be attached to provide a means of controlling the exposure other than ISO and exposure time.
A company called Filmatura has addressed to problem my offering an adapter ring that can hold a 52mm filter and slips onto the Viltrox 28mm F 4.2 lens barrel. It is not machined from metal, but is instead created using a 3-D printer using a plastic similar to a weed-wacker cable. And while those 52mm threads can be created with reasonable dimensional accuracy, they are still plastic, and therefore subject to wear whenever a filter is screwed in or out. Cole of Alt Cine Cam suggests that users install a metal 52mm to 55mm step up ring to prevent damage to the soft plastic threads.
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Buy yours here. |
Now for the filters. While you're at the camera store, ask to see if they have any old colored filters for black and white photography, with yellow, red, and green the most common. They can be difficult to sell because so few people use black and white film, and for most photographers, the effects can be simulated by using a monochrome preset in a digital camera. Very often these filters are just thrown in a drawer, and some dealers may just give them away. Don't worry if they are scratched since you will discard the glass anyway. Just be sure that the filters you choose do not have dented rings which can impede the removal of the retaining ring.
I would up digging through a tub of discarded filters and lens hoods at a local camera store and found a like-new Hoya filter which I paid $5.00 (ouch!) for. Oh well, it's still cheaper than the worst new filter on eBay.Once you've found a suitable filter, adjust your spanner to engage the two tiny slots located on the retaining ring. Look carefully, as they are very narrow. Use a piece of discarded rubber glove to hold the filter ring in the palm of your hand. Now engage the retaining ring slots with the spanner and carefully, but firmly, unscrew the inner retaining ring. After several turns you will now have an adapter with both male and female threads which you can screw permanently into your plastic filter holder. The brass/aluminum filter ring you've just installed will certainly outlast the softer plastic threads.
Here's the actual video. If you can cut to the chase, advance to 1:28.
* I've also seen manufacturers use thin wire snap rings, perhaps as a cost saving gesture, or possibly to prevent warping of the glass.
Post Script: My order for the adapters was made on May 8, 2025 and delivered on May 20. Twelve days from the Czech Republic. Oh, a signature was requied upon receipt.
Order Up: My new (fourth) pancake lens, a Viltrox 28mm F 4.5, has gotten rave reviews since its introduction in 2024. As a photographer, there has to be some good reasons to justify its purchase. To wit:
I'm here at the Sonoma Valley Muzzle Loader Rendezvous just outside of Cloverdale. I try to attend every year to make photos and enjoy the company of many old friends. I spend most of my time documenting the weekend's activities, and at the end of the event after the awards ceremony. I invite anybody in attendance to pose for a photo, which I'll post on the club's blog site for convenient downloading. It saddens me to think that several of these random photos would be included in memorial pieces for the subjects.
The Problem: When working in the late afternoon, the sun's position is low on the horizon. To keep my subjects from squinting, I face them away from the sun, Since I am standing in a sheep-grazing pasture, there are no natural reflectors available, so I am forced to provide my own light. I purposely did not bring my fully-packed Pelican Case so my lighting was limited to the two speedlights I normally carry on assignment. In addition, there's the carrying bag containing an umbrella bracket, a Zumbrella, a bungee cord, and a compact light stand that always stays in my trunk.
The Clamp: In my camera bag keep a Slow Dolphin Photography (yes, that's the name) clamp with its little ball head. I used other mini-clamps, but this one has a bigger "bite" of slightly more than 2", and it can grip planks and pipes equally well. The ball head, while not Manfrotto quality, is strong enough to hold a speedlight-sized flash. Unlike the industry-favorite Justin Clamp, it can fit in the side pocket of my Domke camera bag.
Addendum: I noticed the Amazon warning that this item is frequently returned, and that several reviews found one fault or another with this clamp. I believe that one should be realistic about their purchases. A $12.00 clamp, complete with ball head, cannot compare with a Matthews Mafer Clamp, which costs three times more.
The Cold Shoe: I found an old Frio Cold Shoe in my junk drawer and screwed it in place. Eventually I'll get around to replacing it with an all-metal one, but for now, it will be just fine so long as I treat it gently.
The Setup: Normally I use a single speedlight for lighting, but when dealing with a relatively bright sky as a background, I may need some additional power options if I am to balance the blue sky background with the flash illumination on my subject/s. When used at relatively short flash-to-subject distances a single speedlight is enough, but other times, the additional light provided by that second speedlight can be used to sweeten the exposure.
You can see that the clamp allowed me to easily mount a second flash for additional light. I purposely positioned the flash as close to the lightstand shaft as I could. This minimizes the stress on the ball head because the center of gravity is very close to the clamping point.
Another control option is to redirect the flash. By elevating the flash head angle I could feather the light output to favor the upper half of the frame, should that be necessary or desirable. Had my subjects been wearing lighter colored clothing, this technique could have been used to prevent overexposure in the lower half of the frame, had it been necessary. But in this case, elevating the flash output was not necessary.
In the end, this little clamp and cold shoe combination can provide the photographer some additional light placement options. For its compact size, it provides a lot of flexibility in a very small package.
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Get yours here. |
Costs: Some purchases would be involved. Both of these expenditures can be considered investments, since I'm sure they'll be used again. First, I spent $20.82 for a USB Type C cable. Next, there was a $20.30 purchase of WinRAR, a program that opens RAR compressed files. There was a free trial offer, but I opted to just buy the software license.
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USB Port: Image Source: Click here. |
Tutorials: If you visit the TTArtisan's website, you can see that several lenses have firmware updates available. You may also notice that they have created a tutorial on how to perform the updates. I wasn't too enthusiastic about the factory's efforts, but found this one on YouTube which I believe was better presented.* While the instructions were for a Nikon Z lens, just be sure that you download the Fuji X file update and proceed.
At the time of publication, I've installed the updated firmware, and immediately saw an increase in reliability. I won't say the TTArtisan lens is as reliable as the original Fuji, but I am feeling more confident that it will perform properly if it is ever called to duty as my emergency backup.
*I reviewed this video, and while I thought it was clear, infrequent computer users might have some difficulty understand some concepts like "drag and drop" and basic file/folder hierarchy. I suggest you watch the video several times to familiarize yourself with the process.
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Photo Source: Click here. |
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Photo Source: Click here. |
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Buy yours here. |
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Photo Source: Click here. |
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Get yours here. |