Velcro Back to Back

Photo #1

I found something that should be of interest to anybody who has had to wrestle cables and extension cords as part of their daily pursuits. For me, keeping 50’ electrical extension cords neatly coiled is one of those minor annoyances. I had tried to solve the problem with ball bungees, but they tend to weaken when kept under the constant tension. A less expensive alternative was found in cloth-backed Velcro strips. I simple cut a 3” strip of the hook portion and one of the pile (fuzz). In use, I attached the two strips together, hook to pile, to a finished length between 4” and 7”, depending on how much the two pieces overlap.

I found a better solution at JoAnne’s, a fabric and craft store chain. In the Velcro section, I found rolls of fabric-backed Velcro strip that has hooks on one side, and pile on the other (Photo #1). In use, I found the length wasn’t critical, since the strip could just attach to itself anywhere along itself. For now, I’ll attach a “stitch” (small piece) of Gaffer tape over the hook side at one end of the strip to make it easier to remove. You can see in Photo #2 that I pealed back the outlay so you could see the hook and the pile.

Photo #2

For now, I’m going to use this double-backed stuff for binding applications where the elasticity of a bungee cord isn’t necessary. I’ll keep a few in my camera bag, just in case.

This hasn't been a grand post, but this stuff may remove one tiny irritant from your daily cord-wrangling routine. I know it will from mine.

For those who can't get to a JoAnne's, or prefer to order on line, I found it available here.

DIY Light Stand Extension

I usually keep a Manfrotto 501B Compact Light Stand with an umbrella clamp and a Zumbrella in the trunk of my car. According to the catalog specifications, the 501B extends to a maximum height of 74" and collapses to under 20". They are extremely popular among Strobist fans, since they allow photographers to utilize off-camera flash without employing the aid of a voice actuated light stand (friend who can take directions).

While I like the light stands portability, I have often wished that I could get a little more height from the unit. If memory serves, there was a light stand, sold through Midwest Photo Exchange, that included a built-in boom extension that could conceivably be intended vertically to add some height. Alas, like the CIA, I can neither confirm nor deny the existence of said stand. But the idea has some merit.

Update: June 4, 2015: Click here to see the SP Studio Systems SPBLS32 Combo Boom/Light Stand.


Confluence of Ideas: Photographer Zack Arias, in a blog describing  his portable equipment options, mentions his use of a 1-foot length of 1/2 copper pipe as an extension when using a shoot-through umbrella. He writes:

"...The 1/2″ copper pipe with a swivel adapter is basically a handheld solution to hold a light in one hand and a camera with the other. We’re talking no light stands! And questions from TSA as to why there’s a pipe in your bag. So far so good..." 

 After reading this, it seemed to me that a  piece of copper pipe could also be used to to extend an existing light stand. I had just modified an Impact Umbrella Bracket to accept larger 1/4 x 20 thumbscrews, and remembered that the there were two spigot holes, one horizontal and one vertical, at each end. I reasoned that if I turned the bracket sideways, there would be two vertical holes.

 Well, it worked. You can see the umbrella bracket with one end clamped to the top of a standard light stand and the other clamped to a length of copper tubing. (I removed the thumbscrew and put the clamp handle on the underside to make setup easier to see). This would give me a little extra reach for any 5/8" light stand, or a short handle for an umbrella - speedlight combination, if needed. Notice that I rotated the umbrella clamp to get the stand and the extension as close together as possible. This would minimize any additional torque this slight offset might introduce.

Technical Stuff: Copper tubing is measured by its inside diameter. This threw me at first: Why would Zack use 1/2 tubing? Because when you add in the wall thickness, you get a 5/8 cylinder, which is exactly what you want. When you buy your tubing, be sure to check the outside diameter, just to be sure. 

Find it here.

In my photographs, you'll see that my tube looks more black than copper. To give my kluged light stand extension a more professional look, I applied several coats of Birchwood Casey's Brass Black to the surface, and wound up with a black that was both deep and rich. I used some #0000 steel wool to brighten up the surface, followed by a quick cleaning with denatured alcohol. The procedure was pretty simple: Apply Brass Black with a paper towel to the tube, wait one minute for the oxidation to occur, rinse the tube with water, dry it, and repeat. It took me about six or seven applications (I lost count), but made for a nice finish. I have to keep reminding myself that the tube will get scratched, and that I shouldn't get too attached to the finish.

Some Cautionary Notes: This is not a terribly stable modification, as it adds additional weight to light stand that isn't that strong. In a pinch, the extension could be in clamped horizontally to make short boom arm, but that would be pushing it. But is and when I do, I promise to use my camera bag as a makeshift sandbag. But if used indoors and with extreme care, this extension should work out reasonably well.