By the way: If you haven't already done so, put a small Carabiner in your camera bag when you travel afield. You can use it to link a D-ring on your camera bag with one of the base supports on your light stand to make an impromptu sandbag for a little more stability in the wind.
Speed Light Position: When using an umbrella, it is always best to position the speed light as close to the umbrella shaft as possible. Unfortunately, most umbrella brackets use the speed light's hot shoe as the point of attachment, putting the light source high above the umbrella shaft. To compensate, umbrella bracket manufacturers drill the mounting hole at an angle so the line of site for the speed light intersects the shaft were it meets the umbrella. This works so long as there is vertical "space" for the speed light, as there would be in an umbrella.
The
Photek Softlighter is an inexpensive lighting tool that really benefits
from this on-axis speed light mounting. It is essentially a regular
reflective umbrella that employs a translucent diffuser to cover the
umbrella like saran wrap covers a bowl. In the center of the diffuser
there is a sleeve that allows the head of the speed light to pass
through diffuser so the light to bounce off the inner surface of the
umbrella and pass back through the diffuser to produce a broad, soft
light source.
You
can also see that the sleeve easily stretches around the speed light
when mounted close to the axis. Also, the body of the speed light is now
outside of the Softlighter, so it can be easily adjusted .
Since
proper mounting of the Photek requires a short flash to umbrella
distance, the light is concentrated into a small bright spot centered on
the shaft. You may want a Stofen Omni Bounce to help spread the light out to the edges of the Softlighter, giving a larger effective light source.
I
was checking the web to see how other folks were handling the "flash in
the hole" problem. One clever fellow added a piece of angle iron and a
cold shoe to create a bracket to bring the flash much closer to the
umbrella axis. While succeeds in getting the light ver close to the
shaft, it puts too much weight too far from the umbrella bracket. The
BPT keeps most of the weight closer to the light stand, something that
seems to make more sense to me.
You can see that I installed a Calumet Wireless Trigger Kit receiver to the hot shoe. According to the description, "...This trigger set will allow you to trigger your flash over 100 meters away...". I think that's a little optimistic, but probably sufficient for the hobbyist wanting to experiment with wireless flash triggers.
For those with a Nikon DSLR or a Sony R1 with flash synchronization at any speed, this arrangements allows for easy camera connections using a modified SC-17 cable or a long PC-Male / PC-Male flash cable. Click here for some additional information.
I'll have some sample images in a future post.
You can see that I installed a Calumet Wireless Trigger Kit receiver to the hot shoe. According to the description, "...This trigger set will allow you to trigger your flash over 100 meters away...". I think that's a little optimistic, but probably sufficient for the hobbyist wanting to experiment with wireless flash triggers.
For those with a Nikon DSLR or a Sony R1 with flash synchronization at any speed, this arrangements allows for easy camera connections using a modified SC-17 cable or a long PC-Male / PC-Male flash cable. Click here for some additional information.
I'll have some sample images in a future post.
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